Tie your knots and Check for Safety


1.
Test the rappel system before unclipping from the anchor.

There may be something wrong with the
system and you don’t know it
#1 Always test
#2 Always test
#3 Always test !!!!!!!!!!!!!

2.
Tie knots into the ends of the rope.

You rappel off the ends of the rope.

3.
Use the same routine to tie knots into the ends of the rope when both trad and sport climbing.

You thread the rope through the anchor, but forget to center the rope. As you begin your descent, the short end of the rope without a knot pulls through your belay device and you crash and burn. Testing the system at the anchor won’t help if you make this mistake! Even at the sport crag, always use the same routine to setup your rappel.

4.
Double back your harness

You are not attached to your harness.

5.
Thread two ropes through your belay device

As soon as you weight one rope, the rope not secured to your belay device will pull through the anchor and you will hit the deck.

6.
Thread the rope through the anchor

You are not attached to the anchor.

7.
Thread the rope through two anchors

There is no redundancy in the system.

8.
Center the rope at the mid point on the anchors

When the longer side of the rope is weighted, the short rope may pull through the anchor. See: Accident Report.

9.
Clip into the anchor before setting up the rappel

You are not attached to the anchor.

10.
Clip into two anchor points before setting up the rappel

There is no redundancy in the system.

http://www.innergycoaching.com/goclimb511/gc-101.php

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